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I've got some on my car :D

's cause it's bolted to flexi tin foil in the boot. :/

Can't fault that then, looking at their prices there's not much in it anyway!

Because the XP's are almost as powerful and both the pads and discs last much longer than the CL's! They're superb pads, you can get them direct from carbotech europe themselves btw.

Not surprised after I looked at what the rear one actually bolts to on someones car :rofl:

There's two in Sheffield that are geared up for small order car stuff - spring coil, and coil springs, strangely enough, they do all our springs for the safari rally cars.

You'll find for the same level of body control they probably allow the car to generate more grip in the transitions an will also ride better on the road. This thing about the best dampers only being for race use is a bit of a fallacy, a top-end damper will give you the car control of a hard...

Outgassing causing brake fade hasn't really been an issue with most pads for the last 30 years...it tends to be more the lubricants overheating these days and the reaction at the transfer film being interfered with, you'll find the pads wear much faster when overheated because of it - there can...

Mon-Fri car: Weekend car: Road trip car: Trackday car: Toy:

Only if you start getting to silly temperatures, which you're still going to do with your 2-piece discs unless they're larger as well anyway, they don't give you much more in terms of reducing warping (although they help more with the expansion as the iron heats and cools so pad and disc wear is...

That's the fluid boiling then. Change the fluid for something better and get it changed more regularly. Pads make far, far more difference than discs do, and that's from someone with the fanciest discs on the site :rofl:

Did the car just not want to stop, or did the pedal go spongy too? Change the brake fluid for something decent (RBF600 is cheap and decent enough), and change it every year, and swap pads for something more suited should give you enough for the odd trackday - I'd recommend Carbotech XP8's as a...

Tbh, when I looked under coopers' car the front subframe is already pretty beefy and well re-inforced anyway. If anything you should notice more difference with V3's as the peak chassis loading would be higher.

Does the rear one mount to existing points in the boot then?

It used to be that they were nearly 50% more money than the 888, £30 per corner on top of a tyre that's 150 quid plus fitting anyway ain't all that bad tbh.

Whether its because of the material choice or not, the noise is still from the pad and disc resonating either way. All brake squeal is from vibration.

Carbotech ;)

The diff is rotating at a fraction of the speed though. You might find the reason it doesn't blip any faster is because of the throttle mapping with it being DBW, but it should still liven the car up in the lower gears.

888's used to be the go to tyre as they were almost as good, and almost as durable, as the A048R's, but a good chunk cheaper. These days, they're about the same money, so you may as well just get A048's

That'll teach 'em not to use **** dampers at the back....:lol: