Ken's RS 200 daily/trackday car

Im even more tempted now, I take it it’s solid but controlled (not crashy)?? Did you just buy the front set, I think I’m the website it says they have a front and rear kit?


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Indeed, I just bought the front set. The front end feels incredibly responsive. Unfortunately i'm having alignment issues...cars is aligned and driving superb, steering wheel is turned slightly when driving straight :worried:
 
Indeed, I just bought the front set. The front end feels incredibly responsive. Unfortunately i'm having alignment issues...cars is aligned and driving superb, steering wheel is turned slightly when driving straight :worried:

I’ve seen this mentioned quite a lot but unfortunately haven’t seen anybody actually find a solution. Hopefully you’ll manage to, let us know the outcome if you do. Did you buy the collars direct from Spoon or use that cheaper website I posted in the other thread? I’ve made my mind up that I’m going to give them a try.


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I had a faultcode P0141 for a while, apparantly someone thought they could solder...
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cut it and start again, and do it decent:
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fixed:
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replaced the drivers recaro upholstery
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just need to get a steamer and iron out the wrinkles
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vacumed while the seat was out:
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Skills! Did you take the Recaro to bits yourself? Is it relatively easy to do? I do fancy sending the backs to be sprayed.
 
doing some work to the front end at the moment, complete refresh of the front hubs, new balljoints, new calipers, new wheelbearings, new anti-rotation links, and some other bits and bobs. Removed all the rust, and grime from everything to be reused, painted with zinc and varnished everything.
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this is brill..you doing it all by yourself??
yes, not the most complex thing i've ever done on cars. It has it's own challenges though. I'll need to have custom adaptors made on a lay for my home made press. Have to modify a tool for the (very stuck) wishbone balljoints.

For a single job though it's hard enough, you need some experience...I don't recommend doing it yourself.
 
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Good work. Like everything if you’re willing to put the time in. Learn about things and be willing to make the odd tool or buy a few things here and there these jobs aren’t too difficult.
Helpful if you’ve got access to machinery though. I’ve lost count the amount of tools i’ve made to be able to carry out jobs on cars.
 
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replaced the trunkdampers, i've hit my head against it a few times because it wouldn't fully open on it's own...So time to replace. Also replaced the bonnet insulation, fitted it with different clips because the ones Renault provides are absolute garbage.

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Indeed, I just bought the front set. The front end feels incredibly responsive. Unfortunately i'm having alignment issues...cars is aligned and driving superb, steering wheel is turned slightly when driving straight :worried:
The tracking is off to the steering wheel, so in as much as it’s been aligned the wheel wasn’t in the correct place when it was done

There is an easy solution, you need to get it reset up with the steering wheel in the correct place!

Also don’t forget you will need to have the steering slightly off centre as a car will naturally pull to the edge of the road with camber

Effectively if you take exactly half a turn off the track rod end of the wheel which is towing in too far with the wheel straight and add the exact same amount on to the other side and then drive, it should then be nearer, adjust a little more and you will keep the geometry correct and the wheel will then be in the correct place!

That’s easy and down to whoever set the car up not allowing for the curve of the road or allowing for it too much! :smile: simples!

If the wheel centre dot is off to the left, you then need to turn the steering wheel to the right, as you do this the left track rod end will be too long (ie the wheel will point right slightly), and the right will be too short...

The left and right rack end will need marking up at any given point with tipped on the rack end and the track rod end, now observing the two marks you need to wind the rack end into the track rod end by half a turn so the tipped marks are now opposite each other rather than lined up ie 180 degrees out! Is it’s a 1.5mm thread pitch you’ve just shortened that side by 0.75mm, do the opposite on the drivers side and wind it out by the exact same 1/2 a turn, lock them off once more and have a drive, if it’s gone past and is now to the right of centre you may only need 1/4 of a turn on each!

As both sides aren’t the exact same thread as long as you can work out exactly half a turn your tracking will be fine!

As a little tip you can mark up on the ‘tip’ or point/Peak of a bolt along the rack end and track rod end you can also mark up the perfectly opposite point on the rack end only and then you have a reference point for 1/2 a turn as your track rod end won’t turn, so you’ll in effect turn the rack end until the opposite mark lines up with the track rod end mark

I hope this helps and it does rely on common sense and the ability to work out winding in and out also!
 
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