My 1-2hour wash?!

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by M19TNR, Apr 3, 2018.

  1. Sean197

    Sean197 RIP Albi :( Moderator

    Messages:
    3,350
    Location:
    Fife, Scotland
    Car:
    Albi 197T - RIP, MK7 Golf GTD Sports Wagon
    Look for Forensic Detailing on YouTube, the guy is really good and does a lot of tutorials.
    You'll be hard pushed to do any damage at all with a DA polisher. My advice is to get a medium cutting pad (orange) for the cutting stage, then a black finishing pad for the polishing. Then a second black finishing pad for the Collinite 845. I've done this with mine and it works a treat.
     
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  2. Benno

    Benno Gold Member

    Messages:
    1,775
    Location:
    Birmingham/North Wilts
    Car:
    UR 197
    Cheers Sean, any brands that stick out for you in terms of pads? I was looking at the Hex Logic ones..?

    Just read that you use Glisten on a wet car then dry after, do you find it gives a better finish or is it just purely to cut out a stage of drying then buffing again?
     
  3. Sean197

    Sean197 RIP Albi :( Moderator

    Messages:
    3,350
    Location:
    Fife, Scotland
    Car:
    Albi 197T - RIP, MK7 Golf GTD Sports Wagon
    I use the Hexlogic ones, and have also used a few ebay 'hex' pads (probably cheap Hexlogic copies) and they've been fine. The black finishing pads I use came with my DA kit, along with the Menzerna cutting compound and Super Finish Plus.
    Once I've done my final rinse, I usually do the interior quickly (dash and trims with Autoglym interior shampoo) while the worst of the water dries (but not completely dry), then go round the car spraying the Glisten, then round again with a buffing towel. It seems to work fine, not really noticed a vast difference between that and doing it when completely dry, but it does save time!
     
  4. suj

    suj Gold Member

    Messages:
    684
    Location:
    Birmingham / Warwick
    Car:
    Nimbus Grey 197
    Snowfoam is meant to be a pre-wash, so the main action is to soften the grime / dirt, so that it minimises potential swirls.

    If you just jetwash it, it runs across the surface with high force, and as it will be dried and hard it can cause micro-scratches, the snowfoam softens this, so then it is less abrasive :smile:
     
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  5. M19TNR

    M19TNR Paid Member

    Messages:
    412
    Location:
    Cheshire
    Car:
    RS200t
    Sorry to re-raise this thread....

    Sunny day, broken hand so no work, here we are!

    What’s the script on drying while washing?
    I’m guessing washed sides are going to dry while I’m washing other sides.
    Do people try and keep the whole car wet while washing? Just give it all a spray when washing off a side?

    Or is it not going to affect it?

    Gracias in advance
     
  6. Sean197

    Sean197 RIP Albi :( Moderator

    Messages:
    3,350
    Location:
    Fife, Scotland
    Car:
    Albi 197T - RIP, MK7 Golf GTD Sports Wagon
    I'll pressure wash it to rinse, and if it dries then I'll just give it a little spray before drying with a plush towel. The quick spray saves having to rub hard with the towel to get rid of water marks.
     
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  7. M19TNR

    M19TNR Paid Member

    Messages:
    412
    Location:
    Cheshire
    Car:
    RS200t
    That was exactly my thinking... cheers Sean
     
    Sean197 likes this.
  8. Benno

    Benno Gold Member

    Messages:
    1,775
    Location:
    Birmingham/North Wilts
    Car:
    UR 197
    @Sean197 dragging this thread up again....finally buying some pads and a new backing plate.

    For the initial medium cut, do I need to use something a bit harsher than Tripple or will it still do the job?
     
  9. Sean197

    Sean197 RIP Albi :( Moderator

    Messages:
    3,350
    Location:
    Fife, Scotland
    Car:
    Albi 197T - RIP, MK7 Golf GTD Sports Wagon
  10. Antti O

    Antti O Paid Member

    Messages:
    1,448
    Location:
    Mikkeli, Finland
    Car:
    Clio 197 Ultra red 2007
    You have to remember those small das6 machines are not so powerful. Throw is small and it is quite limited what you can do.
    In fact, clio 197 / 200 do have really hard clear coat from factory, like BMW or Mercs.
    You need something else if you want get rid swirl marks.

    Rupes mark 2 with microfibre cutting pad & good compound, or ideally rotary polisher.
    I cannot recommend small d/a machines anything else than soft clearcoats, typical japanese cars.
    Only thing you can use small da machine with clio is paintwork prep before wax or sealant to have flat and clean lacquer for LSP.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2018

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