Old Gits LY.....now under conversion

Fair enough, yeah it would be anything but a quick job to get a hyd rack setup completed!

What TB you going to use, ph1 172? If so are you going to re-tap the plenum bolt spacing or get hold of a Cup Racer plenum which I believe matches those already.

Already got hold of the 197/200 cup race plenum and TB.
 
Thought I would add some comments, no physical progress on the car....as Ive got a :censored: new house to sort out for her indoors. But I've been promised mid march before I'm allowed back in the garage, which is all sorted ready for the below.
However procured a number of items, namely:-
  • Pair of Hubs with EE brackets off Cup Race.
  • Another cup race front subframe. First one was bent!
  • Cup race subframe drop arms.
  • Front subframe alloy brace plate.
  • Ordered new GAZ gold coil overs with remote reservoirs.
  • steering rack shims
  • Cup race roll bar, came with the bent subframe and LH steering rack.
  • Cup race steering boss
  • Quick release steering wheel boss & spacer.
  • oh and some decals, more of that when the car gets revealed!
Parts needed:-
  • Anti rotation arms
  • Longer drive shafts (by 38mm I have read somewhere)
  • Lighter cup race alloys.
  • A few minor bits and pieces.
Jobs still to do...and this makes me brake out in a sweat!
  • Remove rear axle, blast, powder & fit new bushes, shims etc.
  • Clean up inside rear wheel arches & repaint. ( blistered when the putting the roll cage rear arch braces plates in)
  • Remove front subframe, hubs etc. Blast, paint, clean up the new cup stuff and fit.
  • Finish off the internal brake lines with line lock & bias valve.
  • Finish off the wiring and power the car back up on the new DTA ecu.
  • Install new heated front screen....shit need to buy one.
  • Million 10 minute jobs that turn out to be epics.
  • Map the car
  • Geo the car
  • Drive the car
All this before May!
 
Was able to get a few hours on Sunday to start stripping out the back axle.
Arches need a clean and a paint touch up from when the roll cage went in and burnt away the seam sealant.

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Another axle will go in with the new coilovers ( when they finally turn up) and polly bushed. Thought on replacing the stub axles but at £213 each (fish brothers) may just clean and paint and crack check the original units.

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Now need to get these stripped and cleaned ready for the front. Full cup subframe, arms and hubs etc.

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Amazing work you're doing here mate. Your list of plans above is FULL ON!!!

Hope it all goes well, and glad you've been allowed some car tinkering time in between keeping the Mrs happy!
 
What's different with the cup suspension?

Stiffened up subframe. Arms on spherical bearings. EE bracket on the hubs to reduce the geometry issues with lowering the car as well as bump steer, shims for the steering rack helps the latter as well.
Only problem is that it appears I need longer drive shafts with using standard g/box. Still doing my home work on this but there are plenty of manufacturers around to sort this out.
Not a expert on the full differences but some fellow members may explain.


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Is that specific to cup race cars or cup road cars?

I had shafts done by Berrisford mate. They are indestructible made from F1 grade material and treated etc.
 
Is that specific to cup race cars or cup road cars?

I had shafts done by Berrisford mate. They are indestructible made from F1 grade material and treated etc.

I think it's due to the differences in shaft lengths needed between the sadev box and the standard g/box. I assume the drive shafts needed for the sadev box are longer with the cup race suspension.

Berrisford - Yep got them earmarked.


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Just a small update, back end rebuilt with a few new bits and pieces. Arches tided up, not brilliant but it will do.

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Found powerflex do a general exhaust back hanger rubber similar to Renault dimensions but half the price. So out with the lube....

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Now onto the front.


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If you didn't know you'll need Cup Racer track rod ends too (didn't see them mentioned above). The ball joint has like a collar on it to push the arm down, so in conjunction with the rack shims keeps it tracking the wishbone at the same angle once the EE's are on.
Couple of pics on this post: http://www.clio197.net/threads/whos-using-cup-racer-r3-bits.51613/#post-572208

Yeh got them, just forgot to mention. Not cheap at £65 a end though. Caught up with thread some time ago, so have a handle the pro's and cons. However budget is spirally out of control so may have a rethink on a full cup swap out at present. Plus I need to get the car back on the black stuff.

Also I have two sets of the EE brackets & subframe hangers, oversight when I bought the last pair of hubs. So could be up for sale to regain some funds.