Front suspension Arm

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looking for some info on the front suspension arms. Can the ball joint be replaced on its own and are there any uprated bushes available.
 
The ball joint in the bottom lower arm is a threaded ball joint that is screwed in as sold by "Rofag" on ebay (Picture & link below)

You can also upgrade the bushes to power flex bushes in the bottom arm also but I have seen and read that you are maybe just as expensive to buy new arms.

Bottom arm balljoint -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-GENUI...314595?hash=item2ede3200e3:g:FvMAAOSwHMJYG6Pn

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Bottom arm "front" bush (Powerflex) -

https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Front+Arm+Front+Bush/11172.html

Bottom arm "rear" bush (Powerflex)

https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Front+Arm+Rear+Bush/11164.html

New Genuine bottom arm

https://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/parts/renault-clio-range/wishbone-clio-197-200/
 
Thanks got that is there a tool to wind it out ?
Any one fitted the powerflex camber and castor bushes to the arms
 
Thanks got that is there a tool to wind it out ?
Any one fitted the powerflex camber and castor bushes to the arms

I bought a standard ball joint removal tool after measuring the ball joint. Had to modify it a tiny amount to ensure all the 4 pins engaged on the ball joint. Used some spacers and nut on the ball joint shaft to keep it in place then big 36mm socket. 1m breaker bar and the full 1.5 metres of jack handle and lots of heat and it came out.

Personally I wouldn't bother with the adjustable bushes. Ball ache to adjust and only a small amount of gain. Better with adjustable top mounts and leave the caster as is.
 
I bought a standard ball joint removal tool after measuring the ball joint. Had to modify it a tiny amount to ensure all the 4 pins engaged on the ball joint. Used some spacers and nut on the ball joint shaft to keep it in place then big 36mm socket. 1m breaker bar and the full 1.5 metres of jack handle and lots of heat and it came out.

Personally I wouldn't bother with the adjustable bushes. Ball ache to adjust and only a small amount of gain. Better with adjustable top mounts and leave the caster as is.

Thanks Tom so basically like everything else on these it's F***** tight and a pain in the backside to get out lol.
Cool will just get the black series non adjustable ones. If I keep it I will be putting some KW Clubsports on anyway, so as you say can adjust at the top. In Road car set up as it will be for now is there any value in camber shims at the rear or is there enough there as standard.
 
Is the anti lift feature worth having in the rear bush, certainly the Whiteline anti lift kit works well on the Impreza's
 
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Is the anti lift feature worth having in the rear bush, certainly the Whiteline anti lift kit works well on the Impreza's

Never tried. Might help out in the corners. It's a shame the standard non adjustable bush doesn't come with the antilift feature. Did consider running it for that at the time as I know there's a number of cars that really benifit from it. But in the end just went Standard black.
Not sure how it would effect the suspension considering it's a proper swivel hub design.
 
Will soon find out Tom, thoughtbI would give it a try and set the castor to zero, went for the standard front bush. You wouldn't have a link to the tool you bought for the arm ball joint.
 
Will soon find out Tom, thoughtbI would give it a try and set the castor to zero, went for the standard front bush. You wouldn't have a link to the tool you bought for the arm ball joint.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161912959504

I bought this. The ID is slightly too small. Took a mm off each pin with the grinder and worked perfectly. Big enough to fit over the ball joint then just bolted it in place so it didn't pop off.
 
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Thanks Tom assume it's deep enough to take the ball joint taper etc. How did you bolt it in place.
 
Thanks Tom assume it's deep enough to take the ball joint taper etc. How did you bolt it in place.

Yeah that's why I went with that one.
Put it on. Then used a m14 nut as a washer/spacer then fitted the ball joints bolt ontop to keep it all together. I had a big socket which then went over the lot onto the breaker bar.
 
Yeah that's why I went with that one.
Put it on. Then used a m14 nut as a washer/spacer then fitted the ball joints bolt ontop to keep it all together. I had a big socket which then went over the lot onto the breaker bar.

See it now, can you remember what size the socket was on the tool
 
That would be good can sort out the tools then appreciate the help

The ball joint socket measured in at 35mm
I however used a 36 as i had a decent deep one knocking around that was deep that I use for the rear disc hub nuts.
 
Thought I would update this. When the rear bush came I really didn't like the way the offset bush was fitted. I think it would be very very difficult to fit this in exactly the same position either side, I also think it would rotate when you tighten it, in essence I think it wouldn't be almost impossible to ensur both sides are equal. I contacted Powerflex and they sold me a standard insert so I now have the antilift feature but without the castor adjustability, the non offset insert is interchangeable with the offset castor bush so you can get the antilift feature without the castor but you would need to go Powerflex direct as they don't offer it as an option just now. Its a shame but I think it would be a good product if they made the bush serrated and the insert serrated to match so that you can select the position and known it won't move. It's hard to get a castor increase so definately scope here for someone to make something. The same could be applied to the font bush in terms of camber but again it needs to be able to be set knowing it won't move and at the minute I know of a few people with track cas who have had movement in that bush.
 
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