Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Clio 197 Area' started by trackspec197, Apr 24, 2017.
Does anyone know the weights on the following?
2x Door cards:
Does anyone know the weight of the standard bonnet?
It’s full alloy so I wouldnt bother replacing it because it’s not worth the expense
So just cut out parts from the underneath and get rid of hinges and catch and use aero catches to fix it to the car?
Honestly I wouldn’t bother. I would go aero catches at the front but not the near. If it is removable you will damage the paint on removal and refit each time. I’ve been there and done that lol.
Lol ok thanks for the advice, much appreciated
I did a lot of weight removal with my 200.
From memory best results came from ditching the entire air con system, replacing the Recaros with 1 piece buckets & replacing the battery with an agm type.
Other stuff like losing the rear seats & the rear wiper assy & stereo system helped along with replacing the door cards & steering wheel assy & rear view mirrors with lightweight alternatives all helped.
Fitting the Akra exhaust & Toyosport manifold also saved weight.
I removed more than 100kg from mine. But fitting the cage put about 30kg back in.
There’s plenty of effective stuff you can do before replacing body panels.
Oh & I had the pitking bonnet pins fitted to mine but that was due to requirements for national race events.
As above, I have stripped a few basic things out from my 197 to save almost 20kg including rear quarter foam, under bonnet foam pad, unnecessary items from the tool kit, rear wiper assembly, modified acoustic valve, headlight washers, heat guards from rear diffuser and above rear backbox and ISOfix bar. Also, 200 Cup wheels are about 1kg lighter per wheel than all over 197/200 wheels. I have plans to save another 20kg from modifying the front seat subframes, battery, replacing the standard exhaust (weighty) with a resonated Milltek and decat.
Rear seats is an easy way to save another 15-18kg for regular 60/40 split seats although removing the rear seatbelts requires resistors to not bring up an error message. Cup suspension is marginally shorter than full fat so a tad lighter. Proper Cup doorcards save a little bit. Lighter battery can save as much as 10kg and be a fit and forget item.
For me, I dont want to sacrifice useability, driveability or comfort as its a daily. I am toying with ditching air con to save another 15kg or so but I enjoy the stereo and have added some rear speakers, and equally love the factory Recaros (the subframe is the heavy and overengineered bit) If it was a weekend toy, Id ditch the rear seats, boot carpet, plastics, air con, lighter wheels, a non resonated exhaust system, etc.
@trackspec197 car's is fully caged, stripped out with carbon interior panels and diffuser etc. So I guess he's asking for a different reason.
I have my bonnet hanging in my garage Matt, next time I get the ph1 out I can weigh it for you?
At one point when I started to strip the car for sprinting I was really interested to find where I could lose the weight out of it. I've removed everything thats really worth removing apart from the heater and I've retained the electric windows too. Obviously I haven't taken a hole saw to it but I have removed a number of unnecessary steel brackets like those found at the rear of the car to hold the rear seats etc. Somewhere towards the beginning of my build blog you can find a list of parts that I removed together with the weight saving which you might find useful.
Removing the weight made a vast difference to the car. It made it feel a lot more agile and less cumbersome. I don't worry about the weight anymore with 285lbft it doesn't really matter! haha
This is all interesting stuff guys and thanks for taking the time to comment.
I race mine in speed hillclinbs and I'm obliged to keep rear seats and the parcel shelf for the regulations.
I'm torn because I love the car as it is and driving to events means I prefer keeping carpets, stereo, AC etc but if I ever start trailering it, then I'll probably go to town with it.