Racing Blue Correction

[Matt197]

Hopefully Russ or Woody will be able to answer my question as I know you two have done a lot of correction on 197's

From what I have read, RB is a very hard colour to correct and is very unforgiving so I am looking for any tips you can pass on to me, just purchased a Silverline Silverstorm rotary.

Would normally post this on DW but this is more of a make/model specific question.

Matt

 

[Matt197]

No one?

Will ask on DW then.

 

[chappo]

let me know how you get on Matt, ?

PM me if you like mate,

 

[Ed...]

right, ive thought about ure question and ure throwing ureself in at the deep end big time, a rotary is even more unforgiving than Dual action and really will do more damage than good if not used properly, and with the right type of polish etc etc.

I wouldnt say any colour is particularly hard to do if you know what ure looking for etc.

Is ure rotary variable speed?

what response did you get off DW?

 

[Matt197]

right, ive thought about ure question and ure throwing ureself in at the deep end big time, a rotary is even more unforgiving than Dual action and really will do more damage than good if not used properly, and with the right type of polish etc etc.

I wouldnt say any colour is particularly hard to do if you know what ure looking for etc.

Is ure rotary variable speed?

what response did you get off DW?

Thanks Woody.

Ye I understand the risk, but I am not going to jump right on my car mg:

I am buying a test panel to get used to how the rotary works then will do my dads car haha :thumbsup:

I just read about how RB can be very hard to correct and only responds to certain polish, so was just trying to get an idea of what I have ahead of me.

Not posted on DW yet as its been down since 2pm, yes the rotary goes from speed 1 to 6.

Will do chappo but don’t think it will for a while yet, what with the rain and practice time needed before doing my own.

 

[Ed...]

when u say correction what is it u are after? flawless paint or light swirling gone?

 

[Matt197]

when u say correction what is it u are after? flawless paint or light swirling gone?

Removing light to moderate swirls and a few RDS and also bird **** etching.

 

[Ed...]

u bought any polish yet? or u want me to recommend what I use?

 

[Ed...]

right basically if u want top quality results . .. . .. . . u need to employ me . .. . . . .

no only joking.

panel by panel u need to do this:

mask all ure joints (blue tape)
i use ferecla pads but meguires are alright, u need a cutting pad and a line of polish 5 cm long per panel apart from the roof do that in 2 sections same rule applies. I use G3 or G6 cutting compound for correction and flatting.

when uve done the entire car like that its time to swap pads to a black finishing pad and swap ure polish to G10 finishing compound.

make sure ure pads are damp

try not to speed the polisher up past 3 . . . . . . its very easy to burn the polish so it doesnt do its job and try not to under work the polish

a high wattage inspection lamp also shows up swirls etc as a replacement to a UV lamp

 

[Ed...]

again i shud be charging for my advice lol

 

[Matt197]

Thanks Woody.

 

[RussZS]

I don't want to get into detailing wars or anything, but the heavy and wet approach is great for removing wet sanding marks after freshly painting paint, but it's typically a method employed by bodyshops (assume that's your background if you are using G3 etc?)

I tend to prefer going in softly softly, to minimise the amount of clearcoat you are losing, after all you will probably want to correct it perhaps twice a year or so. Sure, you can hit it hard with anything, but I take an amount of pride in finding just the right combination to get things done, which in turn stops you removing needless amount of clearcoat.

Matt, to answer you question specifically, look for my write up on Friday - I'm doing a RB182. I've only had a play with a few panels previously, and it is very tough paint compared to a lot of the other Renault colours, along with Ultra Red and Ultra Blue for some reason.

There really is no answer though, as this thread demonstrates 'technique' does come into play too. Some will say I pussy about a bit too much...

 

[Matt197]

Thanks Russ :thumbup:

Will keep my eyes peeled for your write up.

 

[Ed...]

a body shop background yes. lmao no detailing wars no. G3 /6 we use to blend spray jobs its highly efficient as it requires minimal effort for flawless paint. I do use a paint depth sensor which maps the depth of clearcoat, top paint, base paint to the micron its a very good piece of kit.

I do use the softly softly approach if the paint is reasonably clear. usual detailing stuff clay and mirror finish pads that have no cut.

 

[Charlie]

Im not sure if this will help you or not.........http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237198

 

[Ed...]

very nice detail there bet that was hard work.

 

[Charlie]

very nice detail there bet that was hard work.

Im a complete newb when it comes to detailing but ive heard he's very good.