Steering wheel alignment issue (help please

[m.a.c]

I've had my Clio for sometime now and the steering has been out for a while!

I decided to get the steering alignment done at a place with a recently fitted hawk eye wheel alignment machine.

I have gone back 3 times now and the alignment is spot on (on paper)

But I'm still having to steer considerably left to go in a straight line.

I've removed the steering wheel tonight, with the idea of turning it a little more left on the splines. Is this possible?

Has anyone got a suggestion on what may be wrong? What I can do?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sean197]

Well-known issue, due to subframe alignment I believe. Only real way to sort it completely is to adjust the subframe.

 

[m.a.c]

Well-known issue, due to subframe alignment I believe. Only real way to sort it completely is to adjust the subframe.

I removed the subframe a while back to replace my manifold. But can't remember if that had mad a difference,

How can I adjust the subframe without a wheel alignment any ideas?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[turkie172]

Are you having to apply force to the left to keep straight or are you saying the steering wheel sits to the left with no effort to go straight. I don't know if its possible but you might have to dial it out by disconnecting the bottom of the steering column to the rack as I'm pretty sure the steering wheel from memory is indexed with one large spline for one fitting position. You will have to check but you will find you have more lock in one direction than the other. I don't know if the bottom of the column is also indexed you might also have further problems as there is a steering angle sensor which is used with traction control basically if you accelerate with lock on the traction control kicks in sooner and cornering light problems. If everything was good before the sub frame drop and the track rod ends are not altered then you need to centre the wheel disconnect the rack and centralise that then reconnect them. The column needs care as you can break the airbag clock spring if you turn it too many times in one direction.

 

[m.a.c]

Are you having to apply force to the left to keep straight or are you saying the steering wheel sits to the left with no effort to go straight. I don't know if its possible but you might have to dial it out by disconnecting the bottom of the steering column to the rack as I'm pretty sure the steering wheel from memory is indexed with one large spline for one fitting position. You will have to check but you will find you have more lock in one direction than the other. I don't know if the bottom of the column is also indexed you might also have further problems as there is a steering angle sensor which is used with traction control basically if you accelerate with lock on the traction control kicks in sooner and cornering light problems. If everything was good before the sub frame drop and the track rod ends are not altered then you need to centre the wheel disconnect the rack and centralise that then reconnect them. The column needs care as you can break the airbag clock spring if you turn it too many times in one direction.

Thanks for the reply.

The steering from memory was fine after disconnecting the subframe.

A little more info to the story, my steering became out (for whatever reason) I went to new track rod ends, as my original ones had seized solid so they couldn't be adjusted.

I only replaced one side. One isn't genuine, any chance this could cause the issue.

I'm having to apply no force at all, it naturally want to sit left to go on a straight line. What I think would suggest the tracking is fine?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[m.a.c]

This is where the wheel sits naturally and the car goes in a straight line


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[turkie172]

You need to check the old track rods against the new ones to make sure they are the same length but when alignment is checked they normally centre the steering wheel and lock it there then they adjust the track rods until the alignment is correct. You did not answer the questions do you have to put effort in to go straight or does the wheel sit at that angle with no effort?.
When you change track rods you should change both for two reasons the both sides do the same work so should be in the same condition if one is knackered then both are, and the second reason is your paying for alignment to be done anyway so if you change the other rod then the alignment needs done again. Also a lot of the after market parts say they are correct for the Clio 197/200 but you always need to check the genuine part number and cross reference the part number for an aftermarket part and you still need to check the steering lock to lock that you are not 2 1/2 turns left and 3 turns to the right from the cock eyed centre position.

 

[m.a.c]

You need to check the old track rods against the new ones to make sure they are the same length but when alignment is checked they normally centre the steering wheel and lock it there then they adjust the track rods until the alignment is correct. You did not answer the questions do you have to put effort in to go straight or does the wheel sit at that angle with no effort?.
When you change track rods you should change both for two reasons the both sides do the same work so should be in the same condition if one is knackered then both are, and the second reason is your paying for alignment to be done anyway so if you change the other rod then the alignment needs done again. Also a lot of the after market parts say they are correct for the Clio 197/200 but you always need to check the genuine part number and cross reference the part number for an aftermarket part and you still need to check the steering lock to lock that you are not 2 1/2 turns left and 3 turns to the right from the cock eyed centre position.

The wheel sits steering left when going straight with no effort needed.

I will get new genuine track rods fitted then get the alignment done again.

I have had a play around with the steering wheel and moved it one notch round, no the steering sits just about centre and the car drives with no effort needed.

Do I just leave it alone now? Or take it back to get it all checked over.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[m.a.c]

You need to check the old track rods against the new ones to make sure they are the same length but when alignment is checked they normally centre the steering wheel and lock it there then they adjust the track rods until the alignment is correct. You did not answer the questions do you have to put effort in to go straight or does the wheel sit at that angle with no effort?.
When you change track rods you should change both for two reasons the both sides do the same work so should be in the same condition if one is knackered then both are, and the second reason is your paying for alignment to be done anyway so if you change the other rod then the alignment needs done again. Also a lot of the after market parts say they are correct for the Clio 197/200 but you always need to check the genuine part number and cross reference the part number for an aftermarket part and you still need to check the steering lock to lock that you are not 2 1/2 turns left and 3 turns to the right from the cock eyed centre position.

I checked the lock and I have a cock eyed centre position.

I went back to where I got the wheel alignment done, they showed me everything on there screen. If he was to do the wheel alignment it would of just put it out again.

Would could be the cause of this? And the remedy?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[turkie172]

I don't think your understanding it fully, take it to a specialist they will understand what damage can be done so they will not cause more problems maybe a little more expensive than a backstreet mechanic but cheaper than a dealer, should be a quicker job with the specialist. Explain that the sub frame had previously been dropped and put back and the rack is not properly centred and that's it. What they will do is what I have tried to explain they will centre the rack, then centre the column and reconnect them and if the steering wheel is centred on the column then everything will be straight and the track rods will be adjusted and aligned to point the wheels straight. If you are doing the full hawkeyed test then change and fix everything on the suspension/ track rods and drop links first so you get the max value out of it and if you test it and it's out then fix it so everything is good else just do a basic alignment adjustment should be £20 the specialist should also have all the tools and if they do race cars they most likely can align it as well. What you have been doing is adjusting the steering wheel to the wheels when you should have adjusted the wheels to the steering.

 

[MrWid]

Your issues lie in the camber reading for both front and rear axle. They're both too negative on the left hand side of the vehicle, i.e the top of the wheel is sitting too far into the arch, which pushes the axle in the direction of the highest negative camber. So both axles are pushing to the right and you're steering to the left to counter this. Normally the max cross axle difference/side to side difference you'd want to see is 1 degree, and you have 1 deg 20 mins across both the front and back axles (which is very strange!)

There is a chance that when your alignment has been printed out, that the ramp isn't locked out/parked in the locks, in which case I'd say the left hand side of the ramp is sitting higher than the right. Where did you take it?

 

[m.a.c]

I spoke to a abbey motorsport and sent over the alignment printouts he's said my thrust angle is really out causing the car to crab and when carrying out the wheel alignment it will never get a correct reading as the rear axle is out!

I need to get my rear axle sorted I think before I get any more alignments carried out!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MrWid]

Good stuff, i'm sure the guys at abbey will look after you. Fingers crossed there's a bit of movement in your rear axle and it can be shifted over, otherwise it will need shims.

Keep us updated on here

 

[m.a.c]

I have finally sorted my tracking out!
After speaking to pure motorsport, I ordered and fitted a toe shim either side as well as extending the rear axle by 1cm either side.

This bought my thrust angle into spec. I had the wheel alignment carried out this morning, put my steering wheel on the original splines.

It's now perfect!!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MrWid]

Good to hear you got it sorted

Just toe shims on the rear then? I only ask because the camber readings between you're latest and previous printouts are massively different.

 

[m.a.c]

Yeah just toe shims. Unsure why it has changed. I will look at camber at a later date! Just happy the steering is all sorted.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk