Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Steves Megane conversion build - She's finally running (VIDEO inside)
- Thread starter Stephenvenning
- Start date
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
UPDATE:
This week not a lot has been done mostly because of waiting for the last bits to arrive and being so busy with uni work and working 10 hour days all week. Anyway this weekend I managed to time up the engine finally! I rented some genuine Renault timing tools and began timing it yesterday, I first found TDC on piston 1, I installed the crank pin into the designated slot, I then checked this with a DTI gauge to increase precision and reduce the chances of power being lost through the timing being out. The cam locking tool was then installed to allign the slots in the end of the cam shafts. The belt was then installed and the Cam pulleys locked into position and the pulley nuts torqued to 30 N/m, the tensioner was rotated clockwise with an allen key until the marks lined up, the tensioner was then torqued to 8 N/m. All the locking tools were then removed and the engine turned over for 2 revolutions, the tools were then installed again to check everything still lined up. The blanking rubber seals were then installed.
This week Ill hopefully get the vacuum lines re-routed and I should finish a custom braided fuel vapour venting line to use up the line of the fuel line that I brought. The heat-shielding can then go on.
The plan is to get the engine in by next weekend, then I can concentrate on the suspension again and then get it finished.
Thanks
This week not a lot has been done mostly because of waiting for the last bits to arrive and being so busy with uni work and working 10 hour days all week. Anyway this weekend I managed to time up the engine finally! I rented some genuine Renault timing tools and began timing it yesterday, I first found TDC on piston 1, I installed the crank pin into the designated slot, I then checked this with a DTI gauge to increase precision and reduce the chances of power being lost through the timing being out. The cam locking tool was then installed to allign the slots in the end of the cam shafts. The belt was then installed and the Cam pulleys locked into position and the pulley nuts torqued to 30 N/m, the tensioner was rotated clockwise with an allen key until the marks lined up, the tensioner was then torqued to 8 N/m. All the locking tools were then removed and the engine turned over for 2 revolutions, the tools were then installed again to check everything still lined up. The blanking rubber seals were then installed.
This week Ill hopefully get the vacuum lines re-routed and I should finish a custom braided fuel vapour venting line to use up the line of the fuel line that I brought. The heat-shielding can then go on.
The plan is to get the engine in by next weekend, then I can concentrate on the suspension again and then get it finished.
Thanks
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
UPDATE:
This week was a big week with the with the project/conversion, the engine is finally in!!
Anyway, on Friday I picked up all my bolts from zinc plating like Ive done with all the engine and gearbox bolts, makes a big difference in the appearance of the engine bay. I also set about that evening re-routing my brake booster line and vapour line. I'm routing the brake booster line around the engine bay using the old AC pipe brackets/clamps to keep it neat and tidy. The vapour line ive made out of some spare braided line and fittings to make it look more in keeping with the engine bay (Im a sucker for for braided lines :lol: )
Saturday I installed some heat shielding to protect the fuel lines and bulkhead from the increased heat of the turbo, it looks however Ill need some more to protect the re-routed brake booster hose. It looks okay, a bit messy in places but im useless with stuff like that, you should see my present wrapping skills :lol:
With that sorted attention went to getting the engine ready, all there was left to do was put on a new aux belt and fit the flywheel/clutch and gearbox. Aux belt was easy to do, 5min job with the right tools. However the clutch was a bit trickier, first thing was the fact there was no clutch aligning tool supplied with the clutch, I had to make an aluminium one out of a bit of scrap bar. With that sorted the flywheel was fitted and torqued to 30Nm + 60 degree's, the clutch was then bolted on using the aligning tool. The clutch plate was torqued down to 30Nm and blue loctite was used. Now the tricky bit, especially when there was only me. The starter motor was bolted to the gearbox and then the box was offered up to the engine, jesus gearboxes are heavy :lol: all bolted up and the engine was ready to go in. Anti seize was used on all the bolts. The loom was also now connected.
Now the even trickier bit, with the hoist I carefully positioned the engine and gearbox in the bay, the exhaust link section was then put through the exhaust tunnel and then bolted to the downpipe flange. After this the engine was wiggled into position and the engine mounts tightened up. The gearbox mount plate will need to be removed in the week to be painted as i forgot to last week and today it was too late to do so.
Anyway the pictures:
Thanks
This week was a big week with the with the project/conversion, the engine is finally in!!
Anyway, on Friday I picked up all my bolts from zinc plating like Ive done with all the engine and gearbox bolts, makes a big difference in the appearance of the engine bay. I also set about that evening re-routing my brake booster line and vapour line. I'm routing the brake booster line around the engine bay using the old AC pipe brackets/clamps to keep it neat and tidy. The vapour line ive made out of some spare braided line and fittings to make it look more in keeping with the engine bay (Im a sucker for for braided lines :lol: )
Saturday I installed some heat shielding to protect the fuel lines and bulkhead from the increased heat of the turbo, it looks however Ill need some more to protect the re-routed brake booster hose. It looks okay, a bit messy in places but im useless with stuff like that, you should see my present wrapping skills :lol:
With that sorted attention went to getting the engine ready, all there was left to do was put on a new aux belt and fit the flywheel/clutch and gearbox. Aux belt was easy to do, 5min job with the right tools. However the clutch was a bit trickier, first thing was the fact there was no clutch aligning tool supplied with the clutch, I had to make an aluminium one out of a bit of scrap bar. With that sorted the flywheel was fitted and torqued to 30Nm + 60 degree's, the clutch was then bolted on using the aligning tool. The clutch plate was torqued down to 30Nm and blue loctite was used. Now the tricky bit, especially when there was only me. The starter motor was bolted to the gearbox and then the box was offered up to the engine, jesus gearboxes are heavy :lol: all bolted up and the engine was ready to go in. Anti seize was used on all the bolts. The loom was also now connected.
Now the even trickier bit, with the hoist I carefully positioned the engine and gearbox in the bay, the exhaust link section was then put through the exhaust tunnel and then bolted to the downpipe flange. After this the engine was wiggled into position and the engine mounts tightened up. The gearbox mount plate will need to be removed in the week to be painted as i forgot to last week and today it was too late to do so.
Anyway the pictures:
Thanks
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
I didn't no, the shaft has been super-finished so very low friction anyway so hopefully will be fine.
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Yeah bit of a relief tbh, now I can work out fuel line routing and bits like that much more easily now. thanks mate
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Thought I'd update the spec of the car as its changed quite a bit from the original spec:
Engine:
Wossner low comp pistons
ZRP rods
Kings racing bearings
ARP head studs
ARP 2000 big end bolts
ARP main bearing studs
Balanced and polished crank
Supertech valves
Catcam valve springs
Ported head
Port matched inlet manifold
MLS head gasket
Transmission:
Helix 4 paddle clutch
Helix uprated cover plate
Lightened billet Fly wheel
Quaife ATB differential
Shot-peened, cryo frozen and super-polished gearbox internals (TL4)
Updated synchros
Complete new seal and bearing kit
Ancillaries:
Bosch 044 HF fuel pump
1.5ltr swirl pot
Teflon braided lines throughout
Torques fittings
Custom fuel rail
630cc injectors
Sytec fuel pressure reg
Alloy radiator
60mm intercooler
Suspension:
200 cup steering rack
Brand new swivel bearings
H and R lowering springs
Im sure there are bits Ive missed, I hope to upgrade more suspension and braking performance later in the year/next year
Engine:
Wossner low comp pistons
ZRP rods
Kings racing bearings
ARP head studs
ARP 2000 big end bolts
ARP main bearing studs
Balanced and polished crank
Supertech valves
Catcam valve springs
Ported head
Port matched inlet manifold
MLS head gasket
Transmission:
Helix 4 paddle clutch
Helix uprated cover plate
Lightened billet Fly wheel
Quaife ATB differential
Shot-peened, cryo frozen and super-polished gearbox internals (TL4)
Updated synchros
Complete new seal and bearing kit
Ancillaries:
Bosch 044 HF fuel pump
1.5ltr swirl pot
Teflon braided lines throughout
Torques fittings
Custom fuel rail
630cc injectors
Sytec fuel pressure reg
Alloy radiator
60mm intercooler
Suspension:
200 cup steering rack
Brand new swivel bearings
H and R lowering springs
Im sure there are bits Ive missed, I hope to upgrade more suspension and braking performance later in the year/next year
matt9566
Paid Member
