Thermostat change and coolant system bleed

[antnee]

I need to change the stat on my 197, I have seen some pictures and found where it is.

Is the change as simple as remove the intake pipes, 3 bolts off, change stat, and put back together?
Also what is the best method for bleeding the coolant system after changing the thermostat?

 

[Legend@wheels]

1 yes simple as that ( if you want more space take off the battery ).
2 drain from the lowest possible point,put something under the thermostat(electric wiring) incase water will flow( and it will,with or without full drain)you can also topup instaed of full drain if it was changed recently (if its old go for new fresh fluid [emoji123] )
Thermostat part number 8200772994
Coolant 7711428130(5 litre)

Good luck

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[antnee]

Thanks,
I am wanting to avoid a full fluid change as it was done just before christmas. Should the system bleed itself if I leave it to run and get warm enough for the thermostat to open?

 

[Legend@wheels]

If you want to avoid full drain ,once youll open the thermostat lift up the pipe ,and will flow some fluid ( you cant avoid it) something like litre(more or less ,get 2 ltres spare) just top up it once you done( try not to mix different fluids)
And as i recommended you should put something above the electric ( under thermostat) because of the fluid .
Edit:
I saw what you asked ,you should NEVER do it!! Youll get overheat before youll turn off the engine .

 

[Foxspeed]

2 bleed points - one on thermostat housing and the other on the heater pipes that go to the bulkhead/interior heater matrix

once its changed - top up with the bleed points open until they dribble just coolant - close off - start engine heater on full heat/fan speed - open bleed points to let out any trapped air - make sure pipes - top hose/heater hoses get hot ie coolant flowing - top up header tank

 

[Legend@wheels]

2 bleed points - one on thermostat housing and the other on the heater pipes that go to the bulkhead/interior heater matrix

once its changed - top up with the bleed points open until they dribble just coolant - close off - start engine heater on full heat/fan speed - open bleed points to let out any trapped air - make sure pipes - top hose/heater hoses get hot ie coolant flowing - top up header tank

By bleed point you mean some plug/screw? If no so i think the lowest possible drain point would be prefered isnt it?

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[antnee]

By bleed point you mean some plug/screw? If no so i think the lowest possible drain point would be prefered isnt it?

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Bleed point is where you let the air out, so it is somewhere near the top (as air rises)

 

[Legend@wheels]

If i dont use the bleed point and drain from the lowest point( drain plug/release pipe) obviously it will flow out trapped air too ,isnt ?

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[montana]

If i dont use the bleed point and drain from the lowest point( drain plug/release pipe) obviously it will flow out trapped air too ,isnt ?

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The bleed screws are relevant when refilling (not draining).

When refilling the coolant, it would be impossible not to introduce air into the system, the bleed screws allow trapped air to escape when the coolant has been replaced, without them you would have a much harder time getting rid of the air trapped in the coolant pipes.

 

[Legend@wheels]

I see ,opened coolant cap filler while engine runing is also a way to release the air right?

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[Legend@wheels]

This is how our cooling system work

 

[perico_]

Hello!
First of all, thanks for the part numbers of the thermostat and coolant. I got the gasket as well.
I am going to change it and I did not found the torque for the three bolts of the thermostat housing (neither in Renault workshop handbook nor in the haynes). Does any of you know it?.
Since they are M6, I suppose that with 10Nm should be ok.

 

[Legend@wheels]

Im not sure about its torque settings but it is small bolts just tight em up well with 1/4 or 3/8 wrench and youll be fine.