Well i've spoken to a few people who had their road going clios this low and track them and they've all said they're much better but EVERYONE i've spoken to has said they prefer the damping hardest possible on the back?
White Clio 200 cup pack
- Thread starter Stubonez
- Start date
Well i've spoken to a few people who had their road going clios this low and track them and they've all said they're much better but EVERYONE i've spoken to has said they prefer the damping hardest possible on the back?
Want the back harder ideally than the front - rarb helps out with this even more. Helps with turn in as makes car pivot better .
well see how get on with it. Just keep playing round with settings.
ill stick to the Guy who runs Clio race cars to set mine up
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Yes I was going to go to him but I only need standard geo done as I'm not having camber done so most places with a 3D setup thingy could do what i need.
I've read multiple threads with people who are as low as i'm going if not lower that run super hard dampening settings and all the feedback is very possitive. Even the chap who fits my coilovers runs stupidly lower and hard dampening (as stiff as can get on the rear) and he said it's 100 times better than sports springs. Either way i'm going to go low and run super stiff and i'm sure i'll be back on here posting possitive things and telling you how well it handles
i'm pretty sure You will, but it doesn't mean it will actually handle that way.
Over-damping will only make illusion of performance (feel of responsiveness). Ideally You want Your suspension to be set to provide 65-70% critical damping at low speeds (depending on the track).
Interesting read (also on true adjustability and performance of shocks on dyno): http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets18.html
and
http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets19.html
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So up front out of 28 clicks what would you recommend? I was thinking somewhere between 20-25 myself.
TB Rich
Paid Member
Quick skim read but seems a decent website that speaks the truth, and I noticed exactly what I said about poor dampers running too much rebound and having a disproportionate increase over the bump increase
Fatcat Motorsports videos on YouTube are well worth checking out too.
Quick skim read but seems a decent website that speaks the truth, and I noticed exactly what I said about poor dampers running too much rebound and having a disproportionate increase over the bump increase
Fatcat Motorsports videos on YouTube are well worth checking out too.
too much for me to understand lol.. What kind of place do I want to set the front at then? 20 out of 28? Or less?
TB Rich
Paid Member
Without seeing the dyno plots you can't even be sure you won't have gone past the highest point...cheaper twin tube stuff in almost all cases doesn't blow off the damping so your rebound at the 'high clicks' will be insane amount of high-speed damping, and as I've mentioned and you'll just skip from bump to bump.
In my opinion unless you spend BIG money don't by adjustable shocks, much better using Bilstein mono-tube stuff and non adjustable. I know you won't get the height you're looking for but why do you want that height....looks it seems, because it definitely isn't true to say -50/60mm is better for handling. It'll screw your roll centre meaning you need disproportionate spring and damper rates to compensate, and then of course bump steer etc is screwed. This is probbaly why the Cup Racer uses 75N/m front rate which seems initially quite soft - but with correct roll centre and wider track too, it doesn't need a crazy rate
Remember a Cup Racer hardly shares a single item as all the bits have been redesigned to correct the geometry from being so low - so no point using them as reference. I've been down this road recently looking for bits to use etc and not worth it unless you want a full Cup Racer front end.Also you do not want the rear lower as pointed out - however what arrangement is the rear setup on Spax, full coilover or platform? As this will have an impact because of the motion ratio and in turn the wheel rates...so not 100% clear cut yet
Also a lot of this is playing devils advocate mate, like you say get on a track day and have a play and you'll end up with a decent setup that works, just don't deck it is my advice
Chris
Bad cop
I'm just having front done as he said rear won't need doing and said around £80. Mines just a simple setup though.
So had the coils fitted today.. got them setup incredibly stiff.. The car is ABSOLUTELY planted.. i can't wait to get on track on 27th at snetterton! dampening settings 23/28 up front 25/28 rear... Only issue i'm having is this very odd dull/droning rub every now and then on the front when on even the slightest of an uneven surface. Oddly i was messaged by someone over the weekend saying " when you fit your coils see if you have a rubbing/drone come from the front when on uneven road" Which i didn't expect to have but i do... Just sounds like the tyre rubbing a bit but it looks like there's loads of space in the arch so not sure what that could be! any ideas? Here's a few pics of how it now sits! Happy boy
G8RSH
Winner - POTM April 2018
Everyone who's had spax has said it! Just grease up the underside of them should stop it like..
I'm no expert but it depends on motion ratio of the suspension, sprung mass supported by each wheel, the desired ride frequency and as a result spring rates and probably many other factors so ideally You'll need suspension position sensors to find out - my point was only to question the feel of rock solid setup. As for the rebound setting (I guess spax are 1 way adjustable so rebound only, may also affect compression as well), frankly I seriously doubt that each of 28 clicks actually does what it's supposed to (Bilstein offers 10-step single adjustability as well as AST, cheap makes often offers twice that much; had once low budget - about the price of Spax - twin tube TEIN SS with 20 clicks or so on WRX STi, You could barely feel any difference between 3-4 clicks at a time, when set up for stock ride hight shocks were bottoming out because of very little oil in it). After reading more about suspension I wouldn't buy coilovers again without a dyno plot of each shock (including plot of each adjuster position). To sum up, I would prefer non-adjustable Bilstein over spax for similar price but each on his own and as long You're happy with your setup that's all that matters I suppose
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