Quick airbox question

Which is which?

Having a quick lunch hour nose about, I think red is the vac controlled cold start feed and the blue is the normal cold air from the grille. Am I right?

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Some interesting threads on the R3/V6 airboxes Mike. But it means relocation of header tank to inner wing area, relocation of battery and possibly fusebox there. Major pita. Eaiser to replace airbox with a CDA and a cold feed?
 
Seems there's a few options.

The R3 doesn't need the header tank swap, but does need the battery relocating.

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The R3 Maxi looks like this, relocate of header/battery (this give me wood)

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Interestingly look at the hole where the OEM cold feed comes in, seems it doesn't extend to the grille. Could be extended??
 
R3 Maxi = BONNER TIME!!

I can see this mod is going to cost money lol

A CDA with a cold air feed from the fog light might be cheaper and easier
 
Well, I'm getting somewhere now. I want to try an OEM mod first before I give up and CDA it.

The right hand acoustic pipe is pointless, so I may as well utilise its inlet.

Plug the vac pipe, graft a 75mm joint onto the inlet and run duct from a deleted fog light. This will give me the option to disconnect the duct on wet days.

Secondly, the grille inlet is partially blocked off and doesn't come all the way down. I'll have a look at extending this to ram some air in.

Finally, I've got some gold heat tape somewhere, so I'll cover the black pipe that runs across the bay.

The aim isn't to get any more power, just to keep the intake temps down.
 
a massive airbox doesnt necessarily meen faster the cars faster. the air fuel mix can be messed up as the sensors cannot or are not programmed to deal with that amount of air flow
 
a massive airbox doesnt necessarily meen faster the cars faster. the air fuel mix can be messed up as the sensors cannot or are not programmed to deal with that amount of air flow

This is only a factor when changing aspiration types e.g from naturally aspirated to boosted.

When modifying a naturally aspirated engine then more dense cold air it can suck In the better, hence the big air boxes on the Clio cup race cars.
 
the cup racers engine has a new ecu to cope with higher air flow, the standard renault 1 will not cope.
 
the standard ECU will run a rough idle. trying to balance the air fuel mix. causing piston and valve damage over a long period of time. oxygen sensor will get to hot and brake everytime u let the car cool down.
 
I have the R3 airbox, like Woddy said the ECU doesn't like it.

It definitely gave gains as soon as I fitted it but now the ECU changes the fuelling as it doesn't know what to do with all the extra air.

Peak power now comes in at ~6700 and holds flat till 7500

You do need to relocate the battery but its no big deal and not a lot of labour for an auto electrician. Though you will need to change it for a battery thats safe for use inside the cabin, mine is under my passenger seat.
 
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the standard ECU will run a rough idle. trying to balance the air fuel mix. causing piston and valve damage over a long period of time. oxygen sensor will get to hot and brake everytime u let the car cool down.

Lol

Smart Ecus were developed years ago (1990s) that "learn" or adapt so to speak to different changes in different perameters of an engine.

For example your AFR, this will alter with air intake temperature, octane or cetane content of fuel (diesels only).

You ecu should adapt to most breathing mods. Like the bigger air box in question. After a few miles the ecu should learn the changes and there should be definitely no issues with the idle.
 
Lol

Smart Ecus were developed years ago (1990s) that "learn" or adapt so to speak to different changes in different perameters of an engine.

For example your AFR, this will alter with air intake temperature, octane or cetane content of fuel (diesels only).

You ecu should adapt to most breathing mods. Like the bigger air box in question. After a few miles the ecu should learn the changes and there should be definitely no issues with the idle.

It doesn't .

It pinks now and then to 'save the engine' and the power curve changes.

This is without a re-map as I'm waiting on KTR new ECU, if it's ever finished :001_rolleyes:
 
Do you know which cell controls this "safety function"?

Surely something like that cannot trip the ecu into limp mode?

Or have Ecus developed "anti modification cells" to stop people like us from tuning and tampering with newer engines?
 
Do you know which cell controls this "safety function"?

Surely something like that cannot trip the ecu into limp mode?

Or have Ecus developed "anti modification cells" to stop people like us from tuning and tampering with newer engines?

I don't have a clue mate :lol: Your best speaking to Raptor about this as his 197's ECU doesn't like his cams or R3 airbox. Simoxmino's is the same.

A fair few power runs comparing it to how the car was standard showed up a glitch (as he called it) and thats apparently the ECU correcting itself.
 
I see, I had a similar thing happen when I was experimenting with fuel rail pressures on the jp4 engines a coupke of years ago.

The ecu kept sensing the injector pulses being the same length but the fuel pressure and flow rate through the injectors was increased ever so slightly, the ecu sensed this and knocked back the fueling which in turn effected performance.

It could be a very similar fault but with excess air instead of excess fuel