Seeking helpful advice on DIY cambelt change.

Living i a car loathing country sure sucks at times...

I was just given a quote of £1700 from the local dealership. I have previously been quoted £1200 from an independent generic shop. These are the only two shops willing to do this job within reach of me. The dealership admitted openly that the price was ridiculous, but said there was nothing that could be done. They did however allow me to bring the parts for them to install for a lowly £850. :blush:hmy:

Having exhausted my options I have come to the conclusion I will have to do this myself. I would like to be as prepared as possible so please post whatever helpful advice you may have such as cheapest place to buy tools/parts. If someone is willing to rent me the tools that would be even better of course.

Please refrain from trying to talk me out of doing this. There really is no better option available to me.
 
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Its not all that difficult as long as you have the equipment, time, space and correct torques etc...

I find a piece of welding wire or similar into cylinder1 sat on the piston allowing you to see when tdc is, before putting in the locking pin.
 
Thanks for the tip. Is there not a visual mark on the engine to indicate TDC as well? I think I recall seeing something in the workshop manual about it.
 
Might be worth a trip to the UK? £500 to get the job done over here, what would it cost for travel here and back and maybe a night or 2 in a cheap B&B?
 
Scrap my idea, it would be 2 ferries and a lot of driving. The ferries aren't cheap either!

Anyway, back on topic. If you get the correct tools, and maybe some advice from one of the few good companies over here that do the job you should be fine.

If you become a member you will be able to get in touch with Karl who is parts guy at Renault in the Uk, he would probably be able to supply you with the tools needed.
 
Might be worth a trip to the UK? £500 to get the job done over here, what would it cost for travel here and back and maybe a night or 2 in a cheap B&B?

I don't think thats a bad idea, you'd get a few days holiday and the belt done for less than the first quote.

Could end up with a mini meet too.
 
I don't think thats a bad idea, you'd get a few days holiday and the belt done for less than the first quote.

Could end up with a mini meet too.

Thanks guys for trying to help. While I would love it, it really is not an option to travel that far. I am a teacher and my holidays are not flexible. Besides, I have a bad back and I don't fancy 4-5 days in the car. Maybe I'll see you next year if the plans to re-open the ferry from here to Newcastle come to fruition :smile:

The job does not scare me. I have done this before on free wheeling engines. It is not rocket science after all. As long as I go slow and double check everything I should be all right. I will use the opportunity to flush the brakes, install heaters for the engine and gear box, and change the fluids on both the box and the engine. Should be as good as new afterwards.

How many hours do the pros estimate for this job?
Obviously the U-clamp needs to be of high quality since it sets the timing, but can I get away with an eBay locking tool for the pulleys and the crank?
 
Don't buy the cheap tools as they can bend , put right a few of these after people using the cheap tools , buy the Renault ones , and you may end up doing another car over there or hire them out , worth the money.
Or you could offer me to come over there and do it?
Been to Sweden and done one for a friend.
 
Thanks for your offer, but I think I want to do this myself. I have room in a garage and Porsche currently in zip lock bags which will take a few months to put it back together so I kinda like the idea of a project I actually will finish and be able to enjoy this year. How about just renting me the tools? I'll pay a deposit of course :smile: Or you could rent me the tools for and bring them yourself. Norwegian girls are famous for their beauty, and for some (strange) reason they seem to love brits :wink:
 
Good for you doing it yourself.
I don't lend or rent my tools out due to being let down in the past , but will get prices for you tomorrow , and will help if you need any advice , I will gladly help ,
All girls love Brits don't they???
 
Yep, I understand about the tools, I have been let down myself. I'm looking forward to seeing some prices.

Of course they love you...:smile:
 
tools

These are the tools you need for the timing

mot 1054 = 0000105400 £8.98 crank timing pin
mot 1801 = 7711381801 £41.81 camshaft pulleys locking tool
mot 1509-09 = 0000150901 £16.56 adaptor for above tool
mot 1496 = 0000149600 £ 40.50 camshaft timing tool

all + vat @ 20% and your shipping
hope this helps
 

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Well done on doing it yourself, I would have too if I had to have paid that sort of money to have it done.

I just had mine done. I used a GATES timing belt kit and aux belt. I used a HEPU water pump. Parts incl coolant cost me just under €200 (£162.50)

Labour (from a well known motorsport mechanic in my area) cost me a further €200.

So, €400 (£325) all in.
 
These are the tools you need for the timing

mot 1054 = 0000105400 £8.98 crank timing pin
mot 1801 = 7711381801 £41.81 camshaft pulleys locking tool
mot 1496 = 0000149600 £ 40.50 camshaft timing tool

all + vat @ 20% and your shipping
hope this helps


you've missed off the conversion sprocket kit, which allows the pulley locking tool to be used on VVT engines. This is about £30
 
Thanks guys. This is really helpful.

How long time should I estimate? I consider myself an advanced hobby mechanic.

By the way, on my Porsche I always change the front seals of the engine (cam shaft seals and crank shaft seals) as well. Is this recommended or should I keep them till next cam belt interval?
 
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Some thoughts on the infamous cambelt and the timing being off

I think I may have discovered why so many have had trouble with timing when they've had the cambelt changed. The horse shoe tool used to set the cams is simply not accurate enough to be relied on to keep timing, even when following the steps in the workshop manual to the letter.

The too large tolerances along with the valve springs trying to rotate the cams, especially the intake cam, is enough to introduce large errors in timing. If one simply trusts the tool to keep the timing one may end up with the timing being off by quite a bit. In my case the genuine Renault tool was so inaccurate that no matter how many times I tried it was impossible to reinsert it after rotating the engine one revolution.

The solution was to manually set each cam using the horse shoe to twist them into place and then tightening the nut/bolt on the timing end. After torquing the first step (30nm) one can check that the horse shoe freely enters both cams and slides back and forth horizontally without much drag. This way the timing will be spot on even after several rotations of the engine.

Simply following the steps in the workshop manual will in many cases probably result in the timing being off on some engines and with some tools. This may be why so many have trouble after a cam belt change.
 
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So it could be then that the people who've had their cars timed wrong... It wasn't the fault of the mechanic, but maybe the fault of the tooling?
 
The cat cam tool seems nice, but defo not for DIY'ers like me :smiley:

I' would love to see jigs they use in the Renault factory though...