Something's "Not Right"

Thinking back to other stuff I've had go wrong, it's probably one of 4 things:

Wishbone bushes
Top mounts
CV joint
ARB droplink

Putting the car on full lock and reversing back in a slow circle usually shows up a CV or top mount.
Wishbone bushes are probably a car up on ramps job and see if you can get play with a bar, you'll never do it by hand.
ARB droplink by eye, sometimes the rubber splits, balljoint goes dry and grinds itself away to nothing.

Wheel bolts are obvious but can happen, I suppose checking the 'rack control arms and joints is worth doing too.

It's worrying that all of you see going to the dealer as a last resort though, are they all that bad? Well, I know one particular chain are shocking, but all Renault dealers??
 
Didn't see your post here Mike. IME all the ones round Manchester are utterly turd.

Anyway, I've linked a thread as I think the problem could be related to THIS

Thoughts?
 
Yep, worn wishbone bushes could deffo make the car squirm around under braking. Are the bushes the same on all cars, i.e. cups, non-cups?? If one has uprated versions it could be worth changing to them?.. Most cars have a voided version that can easily split, I always polybush wishbones personally.

I've only been into a well known chain near IKEA and Lookers in Macclesfield, the latter impressed me.

If you want a really good specialist to have a look though, give Keith or Mike a call at Votex in Congleton and tell them I sent you - really good garage, they'll have it diagnosed in a jiffy and write you a report to go armed with for the dealers to repair on warranty.
 
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Will they do it for nowt though Mike :wink:

I'm considering just telling the dealership that that's what the problem is, rather than suggesting any question over it! lol

BTW, I've never used the Macc one. Might give 'em a bell and see what I think. I don't care who does it tbh as long as I get a courtesy car that isn't charged out. Had to battle with Stockport on that one last time and ended up getting RUK involved
 
Well no, but if they're telling you there's nothing wrong and you prove there is, I'd be demanding it fixed and also asking them to cover the cost of you having to go elsewhere to diagnose it for them.

Mike's got a cracker of an S1 Rallye rally car, he knows a fair bit about French clutter.
 
I'll keep em in mind Mike. For now it's booked into Lookers in Macc. I'm going to get it in the air again and see if I can get a pry bar on to check for play in the bushes
 
u want it on a CV joint tester... like they have at MOT stations swerving a pry bar might damage them.
 
I'll keep em in mind Mike. For now it's booked into Lookers in Macc. I'm going to get it in the air again and see if I can get a pry bar on to check for play in the bushes

Keep us posted, i cant find anything wrong with mine and i've checked this, tightened that and levered the other and i still cant find whats causing the noise.

I feel it may be the steering rack, steering column intermediate shaft or the electric steering column assembly.

A friend of mine says the noise is something to do with the 'torque sensor' within the electric assistance on the column, and is a charateristic of this so called EPAS system.
 
I had the engine mount repaired a year ago, the car was off warranty, and the dealer disassembled the mount, did some magic and put it back together, the knock is gone, regarding to the engine mount it was only on cold engine, cold weather, a knock when accelerating, or releasing the gas pedal. then I had a n/s/f knock, replaced the complete steering rod I guess its called, two pieces that are attached to the steering rack, both were already loose, now a few weeks ago the knock appeared again and now it was a little joint that goes from the arm to the... eergh the hub ?? it was about 55 pounds to get it fixed, not the stabilizer joint though, you can actually see it if you turn your wheels to the outside of the side you are checking, and if its loose you will feel it, there still is another little knock left so I still need to find what needs to be changed to get it out. hope you get it sorted mate!
 
biggest problem is the steering rack inner ball joints wear - thses are replaceable
suspension bushes - be careful as they are meant to have "compliance" in them in one direction and nothing in the other
it may be worth removing the complete strut assembly and removing the spring to see if the damper rod works correctly and the top mount is ok - jase had this faulty on his car
you do get some "knock" through the rack when turning on bumpy roads this is the feedback from what the road is doing and this can make the power steering system mechinism make the noise as the rack moves backwards and forwards slighlty due to the bumps !
 
Right had the wheels off and car on axle stands yesterday, while i had the front bumper off to do some repairs to it i checked this clunking thing

the clunk is getting worse now and it still clunks through the steering wheel when you turn it left, my case was proven as when the wheels were off and i turn the sterring its smooth.proving that when the steering is loaded somthings loose/worn

well when turning left and right there is a fair bit off slack and noise coming from the steering rack/inner track arm on both sides

even my old man said it wasnt right lol , reno were meant to of found the fault when i took it in 2 weeks ago and they said it was fine..grrrrr

so now i have to take it to the dealers again

does anyone have any advice on what to say to them when taking it back?
 
Right had the wheels off and car on axle stands yesterday, while i had the front bumper off to do some repairs to it i checked this clunking thing

the clunk is getting worse now and it still clunks through the steering wheel when you turn it left, my case was proven as when the wheels were off and i turn the sterring its smooth.proving that when the steering is loaded somthings loose/worn

well when turning left and right there is a fair bit off slack and noise coming from the steering rack/inner track arm on both sides

even my old man said it wasnt right lol , reno were meant to of found the fault when i took it in 2 weeks ago and they said it was fine..grrrrr

so now i have to take it to the dealers again

does anyone have any advice on what to say to them when taking it back?

tell them what you did and what you found......and that they as the "professionals" should have found the fault and rectified it - the inner ball joint/track arms can be replaced seperately
 
had exactly the same on mine mate, but on the passenger side an also creaked when manouvering at low speeds.
was ball joint, inner axial ball joint an tie rod apparently
 
thats good to know hopefully the dealers sort it this time

i think i should just tell them im not having it back untill they have fixed it..
 
Booked in for next week
It better be fixed this time lol
Infact I'm not having it back off them until its fixed I'm sick off booking it in all the time
 
Booked in for next week
It better be fixed this time lol
Infact I'm not having it back off them until its fixed I'm sick off booking it in all the time


GUESS WHAT just got car back and apparently its all fine .....grrrr

Wtf do I do now ? They say they have checked it with another 197 and its ok

So now im goin to have to pay for a independent inspection

Would reno refund the cost of their is a fault found ?

p155ed off
 
Mine's been in again to Renault Macclesfield on Mike Roberts's reccommendation.

3 warranty issues are being dealt with, but they can't find anything wrong with regards to the knocking! :@

This despite screwing the arse off it (mpg had dropped from 30 to 24 when I picked it up, over 3 miles!)
 
FFS it aint good is it, i know my car lol and they tell me its ok grrrrrrrr

well its got its service soon which is before the warranty runs out so hopefully the reno specialist i take it too can find the fault i reckon its deffo the inner axial ball joint on the rack

its ruining the driving now as i know its not right